Every other Christmas, Rod’s father’s side of the family convenes for a Christmas Eve celebration. This was the year.
In addition, Rod’s father’s 70th birthday was the week before, in Cuernavaca. Rather than drive down twice, we decided to arrive for the birthday celebration, rent a little villa for the week, take some day trips and hit the big Christmas event on our return.
It only took us two hours to drive to Mexico City, but it took three hours to cross it. (One of Rod’s cousins asked me if I found it difficult to drive in Mexico City. “Why would it be?” I asked, “There is a car in front of you, one behind you, one on your right and another on your left; and you’re only going five kilometers per hour. What’s hard about that?”)
In Cuernavaca, we stayed at Las Villas de Bellavista ( http://www.cuernavaca-villas.com/crental4/rental_houses_cuernavaca204.html) which was about 10 minutes from Rod’s parent’s house. It was half the price of the hotel where we usually stay, and it had a big kitchen, beautiful gardens and a swimming pool. Although a little dated in appointments, it was spacious, comfortable, quiet, and the owners couldn’t have been nicer. Two of their cats spotted us for what we are (i.e., animal lovers) and adopted us immediately.
We arrived at the family home around 6:00 in the evening. (The party had started at 2:00, about 50 people.) Rod’s parents and brothers greeted us immediately and much to my surprise, Rod’s older brother was speaking to me in English; the same brother who two years ago, wouldn’t look me in the eye and would only speak rapidly in Spanish. Now, suddenly, he speaks English. And, did I get some food? Do I want any more? Are the waiters chilling my wine? Am I ready for it now? Do I want something else while the wine is chilling? (What a difference four years makes.)
And let’s not forget Rod’s mother; the woman who did barely more than scowl at me for two years. (I was more than a little afraid of her.) Not only was I greeted with a kiss but she had knitted me a scarf.
A good portion of the week was spent around the family dinner table, eating, talking, eating some more, but Rod and I did manage to sneak off for a day trip.
Our first stop was Las Grutas de Cacahuamilpa (http://cacahuamilpa.conanp.gob.mx/). It was the biggest cave I’ve ever seen, with stalagmites and crystal formations leading two kilometers into the mountain. Even with my claustrophobia, this cave was so big that it was no issue. (There is even a theater for about 200 people in the middle of this thing.) The pathway and surrounding formations were all cleverly and artistically lit. (I can’t imagine the person who found it going in with only a flashlight.)
From there we ventured on to the city of Taxco, famous for its silver production. The drive was beautiful, as was the city itself, set against a mountain side. However, unless you are really interested in buying silver, this town doesn’t seem to have much to offer. The streets are narrower than San Miguel and still they are two-way. And there is hardly any place to park. We were told, “Never go on a weekend.”
One thing that stood out to me on this trip was how much cleaner this part of Mexico is than our state of Guanajuato. I’m frequently annoyed by the amount of litter and garbage that I see strewn about the roadside and countryside. But not here. Not in this part of Mexico.
Probably my favorite part of the week was when all eleven of us (Rod’s immediate family) packed into two cars and headed to the town of Malinalco to see the ruins and to fish for our lunch. The trip took us about two hours from Cuernavaca. (It wouldn’t have taken us two hours except we passed through the mountain town of Chalma where the faithful bath in sacred waters that pass under a tree. Being a Sunday, they were out in mass (so to speak), and roadside vendors were selling beautiful crowns of flowers.)
The first stop in Malinalco was the archeological site. At the entrance we were figuring out who and how we were going to pay for all eleven of us when we were informed that I would be the only one who had to pay. On Sunday, Mexicans and Mexican residents can enter for free. The only proof of residency that I had with me was my Costco card and that wouldn’t cut it. My FM3 was back in the car, at the bottom of the hill, and I wasn’t about to go all the way down and back to save 40 pesos.
After the older boys were done playing “Rey del Mundo” (King of the World), the middle child, Santiago, thought it was time to go. “Vamos a pecar,” he said, (“Let’s go sin,”) instead of “Vamos a pescar,” (“Let’s go fish,”). (I decided then and there that I shouldn’t learn Spanish from a three-year-old.)
We headed off to the trout pond where we used bamboo poles (with cigarette filters as bait) to catch our lunch. The locals cleaned our fish and then we took them across the street to a restaurant where they cooked them for us, three different recipes, for $1.00 or $1.50 depending on our choice, and served them with beans and rice. (The bill for lunch, including soft drinks and beer for all eleven of us, was about $50.)
In addition, Rod’s father’s 70th birthday was the week before, in Cuernavaca. Rather than drive down twice, we decided to arrive for the birthday celebration, rent a little villa for the week, take some day trips and hit the big Christmas event on our return.
It only took us two hours to drive to Mexico City, but it took three hours to cross it. (One of Rod’s cousins asked me if I found it difficult to drive in Mexico City. “Why would it be?” I asked, “There is a car in front of you, one behind you, one on your right and another on your left; and you’re only going five kilometers per hour. What’s hard about that?”)
In Cuernavaca, we stayed at Las Villas de Bellavista ( http://www.cuernavaca-villas.com/crental4/rental_houses_cuernavaca204.html) which was about 10 minutes from Rod’s parent’s house. It was half the price of the hotel where we usually stay, and it had a big kitchen, beautiful gardens and a swimming pool. Although a little dated in appointments, it was spacious, comfortable, quiet, and the owners couldn’t have been nicer. Two of their cats spotted us for what we are (i.e., animal lovers) and adopted us immediately.
We arrived at the family home around 6:00 in the evening. (The party had started at 2:00, about 50 people.) Rod’s parents and brothers greeted us immediately and much to my surprise, Rod’s older brother was speaking to me in English; the same brother who two years ago, wouldn’t look me in the eye and would only speak rapidly in Spanish. Now, suddenly, he speaks English. And, did I get some food? Do I want any more? Are the waiters chilling my wine? Am I ready for it now? Do I want something else while the wine is chilling? (What a difference four years makes.)
And let’s not forget Rod’s mother; the woman who did barely more than scowl at me for two years. (I was more than a little afraid of her.) Not only was I greeted with a kiss but she had knitted me a scarf.
A good portion of the week was spent around the family dinner table, eating, talking, eating some more, but Rod and I did manage to sneak off for a day trip.
Our first stop was Las Grutas de Cacahuamilpa (http://cacahuamilpa.conanp.gob.mx/). It was the biggest cave I’ve ever seen, with stalagmites and crystal formations leading two kilometers into the mountain. Even with my claustrophobia, this cave was so big that it was no issue. (There is even a theater for about 200 people in the middle of this thing.) The pathway and surrounding formations were all cleverly and artistically lit. (I can’t imagine the person who found it going in with only a flashlight.)
From there we ventured on to the city of Taxco, famous for its silver production. The drive was beautiful, as was the city itself, set against a mountain side. However, unless you are really interested in buying silver, this town doesn’t seem to have much to offer. The streets are narrower than San Miguel and still they are two-way. And there is hardly any place to park. We were told, “Never go on a weekend.”
One thing that stood out to me on this trip was how much cleaner this part of Mexico is than our state of Guanajuato. I’m frequently annoyed by the amount of litter and garbage that I see strewn about the roadside and countryside. But not here. Not in this part of Mexico.
Probably my favorite part of the week was when all eleven of us (Rod’s immediate family) packed into two cars and headed to the town of Malinalco to see the ruins and to fish for our lunch. The trip took us about two hours from Cuernavaca. (It wouldn’t have taken us two hours except we passed through the mountain town of Chalma where the faithful bath in sacred waters that pass under a tree. Being a Sunday, they were out in mass (so to speak), and roadside vendors were selling beautiful crowns of flowers.)
The first stop in Malinalco was the archeological site. At the entrance we were figuring out who and how we were going to pay for all eleven of us when we were informed that I would be the only one who had to pay. On Sunday, Mexicans and Mexican residents can enter for free. The only proof of residency that I had with me was my Costco card and that wouldn’t cut it. My FM3 was back in the car, at the bottom of the hill, and I wasn’t about to go all the way down and back to save 40 pesos.
After the older boys were done playing “Rey del Mundo” (King of the World), the middle child, Santiago, thought it was time to go. “Vamos a pecar,” he said, (“Let’s go sin,”) instead of “Vamos a pescar,” (“Let’s go fish,”). (I decided then and there that I shouldn’t learn Spanish from a three-year-old.)
We headed off to the trout pond where we used bamboo poles (with cigarette filters as bait) to catch our lunch. The locals cleaned our fish and then we took them across the street to a restaurant where they cooked them for us, three different recipes, for $1.00 or $1.50 depending on our choice, and served them with beans and rice. (The bill for lunch, including soft drinks and beer for all eleven of us, was about $50.)
After lunch there was a brief detour for ice cream and then another for diaper changes, and we got back just after sunset.
Now we’re ready to brave the drive back to Mexico City for Christmas Eve.
3 comments:
Sounds like a good time - I'm glad Rod's family is coming around and warming up to you more than before. As long as you are happy, I have peace of mind:) I love the idea of catching fish and then someone else cooking it up for you - and for cheap! I'm living in the wrong country, I must say. I know it's my turn to visit, but when is your next visit to TN?
Thank you for your blog.
I visit Mexico vicariously via your blog. Were I to locate anywhere else, Mexico it would be, now that religious fundamentalism has forced me to take Morocco off my list of places I want to live.
Don't get me wrong, I still love Morocco, just feel less safe there than I used to.
I am happy that you and Rod are back together and that Rod's family now embrace you.
Cheers, and please keep blogging.
Lars, in Victoria, British Columbia
I hope you give yourself the tremendous credit you deserve for staunchly accompanying Rod to visit his large extended family where not only are the language and the customs not your own, but coldness and distrust had already been demonstrated by certain important members. Yet your charming, loving personality and clearly demonstrated love for their family member triumphs through all the obstacles. How cool is that?
Love you,
Sabrina
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