Friday, December 29, 2006

Cat Litter and a New Car

Andrea asked me to drive to Queretaro with her, to pick up some things for her clients. I didn’t really need anything from Queretaro so I called Rod and asked if he needed anything. Cat litter from Costco. So off we went.

I left Costco with only the cat litter and a new DVD. My cheapest trip to Queretaro ever.

Andrea and I climbed into the Pathfinder and I turned the key. It wouldn’t start. This has happened before. All the dash lights turn on but not the engine. Nothing. Not a sound. And then, after a number of tries, it starts and doesn’t have a problem again for months. I’ve talked with the folks at the repair shop and they say that they cannot diagnose the problem except when it is happening. “What if I’m stuck out at some ranch?” I asked. “Call us, we’ll come.” (Yeah, but what if I don’t have cell phone coverage?) Whatever. I’m pretty sure it is a problem with the ignition and I should probably just have it changed as a pre-emptive strike.

As before, after a number of tries, it starts as if there is no problem. I turned to Andrea. “We leaving Friday for Mexico City and then on to New York. I can’t take this car. What if it craps out on me someplace on the road, we get stuck and miss our flight? It will screw up our whole Christmas.”

“Let’s go buy a new car!” Andrea said.

“I thought you had to buy fabric.”

“I can come back later this week and do it. Let’s buy a new car. You worked hard for your money. You deserve it. When was the last time you bought a brand new car?”

“17 years ago.”

“There, you see? It is not like you’ve been extravagant. Yea! It’s time for a new car! Call Paola. She has a Nissan X-Trail. That’s the car you want, right? She’ll know where the dealer is in Queretaro.”

(I’ve found that Andrea is very good at helping other people spend their money.)

Paola did, in fact, know exactly where the dealership was and was delighted to meet us there as she wanted us to drive a friend back to San Miguel.

Long story short (too late for that now, right?), I bought the car. That week included a banking holiday so I had to do some fancy footwork in order to get the money together. The salesman delivered it to the ranchito on Thursday and I drove him to the bus station for his return trip. Then, on Friday, I needed to get the car registered, get license plates (Mexico City’s smog prevention program does not allow cars without plates to drive in Mexico City on Friday’s and two of our planned travel days were Fridays) as well as a smog certification (required every six months here). We were able to ask for plates with no circulation on Wednesdays, and managed to pull it all off in the morning and departed for Mexico City that evening.

Given that I’m afraid to drive in Mexico City, you can imagine how white knuckled I was, as Rod drove my brand new car across town to the hotel. He did a fine job I think. My eyes were closed most of the time.

Birthday Party

Given that our birthdays are only eight days apart, we planed a joint birthday party. Turning 47 is not a monumental birthday mark, however, turning 30 is. I therefore had to defer to Rodrigo in terms of planning the event. Much to my chagrin, he wanted a “Drag Queen, Drag King” theme.

I was less than enthused, probably because I’m too old to be a pretty woman and if one is going to do it, one should do it right. Right? So I decided to take the easy road and be a nun. Nothing to shave, no makeup, easy. Rod, on the other hand, took to watching Cher’s farewell tour DVD for his inspiration.

Begrudgingly (on my part), we set off for Queretaro to pick out our fabrics. Once inside the fabric store I began to get into the whole idea as we found one crazy fabric after another, and dirt cheap.

Andrea turned us on to a seamstress and we took her our fabric and photos of our ideas. (I just had to look up “Nun costumes” on the internet for my photos. Rod had to stand in front of the TV, pause the Cher DVD and take photos with the digital camera.) I think Liz, the seamstress, really enjoyed the project. It was certainly more creative and interesting than her normal jobs. And her 11-year-old daughter stood by at each fitting, fascinated by the whole concept.

I have to admit, the party was a smashing success. Even the straight boys went all out, although most made for some pretty ugly women. And the girls comparing their make-shift bulges were hysterical. One guy made his entire dress completely out of glad trash bags. We gave first and second place awards in each category and one bar owner who attended, wanted us to do it again the following week. (Probably at his bar given how much he saw everyone drink.)

As for the rest, a few photos speak volumes.















Thursday, December 14, 2006

Angels and Insects


Wasp nest in back yard

I was sitting on the front patio, reading, when I noticed a swarm of flies invading. It was small at first, and then began to build. I quickly realized that they were not flies at all, but small black wasps. Within seconds I was driven into the house as the swarm intensified and they began building a nest on the beam in the corner.

This was not the first time. About a year ago I returned from the states to find a nest already constructed in the same location. Rod had tried smoking them out with a chiminea, but to no avail. We were forced to abandon the front porch and use the back door. (We also had to keep an eye on our dog Evita because she likes to eat the wasps even though they sting her in the mouth. I guess she thinks they’re spicy.)

“You need to spray them with soapy water,” was Andrea’s advice, “Then run like hell.”

So last year I put on my top coat, gloves and a hat, loaded the “Super Soaker” with soapy water, launched my attack and ran like hell. The nest was instantly demolished but to my surprise, reconstruction began immediately. It was like a neighborhood barn raising, as if all the neighboring wasps dropped by to help rebuild. It was Maria, our maid, who found the solution by spraying the beam with Raid through the window screen.

So this year I went straight to my “Service Advertisement” file and found an exterminator. But when I returned I found Maria on the patio, towel over her head, mopping the beam with soapy water. Who needs an exterminator when one had a brave maid?

A couple of days later, while pruning a tree, I found the huge nest you see in the photo. It is difficult to get the perspective in the photo but I was not about to stick my hand up there. It is far enough away from the house that we have an agreement, they don’t bother me and I won’t bother them.

Thursday, October 12, 2006

Dog Show


This is NOT one of our dogs but I’ve never seen anything like it. It is a Chinese Crested.


This is Rodrigo showing one of our Bedlington Terriers.

Last weekend was the annual dog show in San Miguel. Four of Rodrigo’s friends showed up to stay with us, bringing with them more than 20 dogs for show. It actually wasn’t all that bad because they spent the whole weekend at the exposition and the dogs all slept in crates in the van at night.

While dog shows are not really my thing, it was great to see Rod having so much fun. When they all returned to the house after dinner, it was like a Girl Scout slumber party (but with beer). A dog shows has got to be one of the gayest events that is not labeled gay.

Huatulco

This photo is from our August trip to Huatulco. Do you see the face in the rock?

I highly recommend a vacation in Huatulco, just not in the summer. It was unbearably hot and we did little more than sit on the beach, swim, eat and sip cocktails. But it is beautiful, well planned and still very reasonably priced. We stayed at the hotel Zaashila.
http://www.camino-zaashila.com/

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

Eating Horses

This summer has brought with it many guests from both Mexico and the U.S. Among them, my 11-year-old godson Nathan, and his parents Bob and Bridget. (They live in Richmond, California.)

Having taken Mexicana’s only direct flight from Oakland, a red-eye, the shuttle dropped them off here at the ranchito in the morning. Expectedly, Bob and Bridget were exhausted. Nathan, however, was so excited that he was on fire. “I saw some horses as we drove in. Can we go pet them?” he asked.

So after feeding Bob and Bridget and putting them down for a siesta, Nathan and I ventured out the front gate and I watched while Nathan made friends with a couple of the horses grazing near the property. Thereafter we walked one of the trails off into the countryside with him chattering away the entire time.

“It’s really hot here. I should probably have changed my shirt. I like shirts with long sleeves but with this one I have to wear a shirt underneath because otherwise it shows too much of my chest and I don’t think that looks very nice. Do you have rattlesnakes? What other kind of animals live here? Can we pet the cows? Oh my god, was that a giant wasp? That was. A giant black wasp. I didn’t know that you had those here. I hate Mexico and I used to love it.”

“Nathan, you’ve only been here two hours.”

“I know but those things scare me.”

The week proceeded with Nathan pursuing many projects. These included filling a plastic bag with sand, suspending it from a tree and then stabbing it with my father’s old military knife; attempting to fashion a home made bow and arrow out of random tree branches and stones; disassembling a variety of yo-yos, reassembling them and demonstrating his yo-yoing skills, and multiple trips to visit the horses.

I thought it might be nice if he had someone his own age to play with so I asked our maid Mary to bring her son Rafael out for a visit. Both boys were a little apprehensive given that neither spoke the other’s language. But we thought we’d give it a go.

The first thing that Nathan wanted to do when Rafael arrived was to take him out to feed the horses. (I don’t imagine that Rafael gets as much out of horses as does Nathan. To Rafael, who has been raised around them, they are transportation.) So Bob and I were attempting to ask Rafael what he’d like to do.

“Do you know the verb for “to feed” I asked Bob?

“Um, let me think. Quieres comer los caballos?” he asked Rafael.

“Bob . . .”

“Yes.”

“I’m pretty sure you just asked him if he wanted to “eat the horses”.”

“Ok, I think I’ve got it. Quieres alimentar los caballeros?”

“Bob . . .”

“I just ask him if he wanted to “feed the gentlemen” didn’t I?”

“I’m pretty sure you said “caballeros” when you should have said “caballos.”

As Rafael stared at us with his sweet little blank face, Nathan said, “Come on Rafael” and led him away.

“Do you think he’s scarred for life?” Bob asked.

“No, but given the choice he’ll probably steer clear of gringos in the future. I’m sure he thinks we’re freaks.”

Ethnic Costume

I've been trying to get Rod to acquire and wear one of these costumes. I even told him that we could play cowboy and indian and he could win. He's not going for it.

Monday, September 25, 2006

A Bed for Rafael

(Ok, so the photo has nothing to do with the story but we’re proud of our bumper crop if cherry tomatoes. Rod is now cooking them down into marmalade and the whole house smells wonderful.)


Mary, my maid, is the same age as I. She has four children by two husbands. The oldest is 31. (She had him when she was 15.) The youngest, Rafael, is 11.

A few weeks ago Mary left her second husband, who hasn’t worked in two years, took her youngest son and moved into her oldest son’s home. I found out through snatches of conversation that Rafael has never had a bed. He slept on the floor when they were living with his father’s family and was sharing a bed with Mary in their new home. Any time Mary suggested that they acquire a bed for him, her husband said, “No, he’s fine on the floor.”

An 11 year old boy needs his own bed. More so in a couple of years for reasons that don’t need to be explained. I asked if there was maybe a room that he could call his own and was told that yes, there was a small room that was either empty or could be emptied easily.

I took Mary to a local furniture store and purchased a single mattress and a wooden base and headboard for Rafael. (On another trip to Costco I bought a mattress pad and a set of 400 thread count cotton sheets.) The headboard wasn’t really necessary but it was so inexpensive that I asked Mary if she wanted it. “Si Charles, pero solamente si es economico.” She didn’t want me to spend anything more than the basics and probably would have been delighted with just a mattress on the floor. I decided on the works and as I passed the cash to the store clerk, Mary’s eyes got teary. “Gracias Charles.” I just hugged her and said, “De nada.”

The next day the bed was delivered. Mary explained that Rafael told his friends that he couldn’t go out to play because his NEW bed was being delivered. She also said that he didn’t sleep in his new bed until 6:00 in the morning because he was awake just admiring it. He is now working on writing a thank you note to Rod and me.

I have to admit that making a difference in one small child’s life is really rewarding. I almost feel guilty for feeling so good about the gift.

Mary is one of 12 children and there are at least 150 family members who live in San Miguel. None have ever asked me for a thing and whenever I need help, in a phone call someone is there. Mary was also my father’s primary care giver and his favorite. It was the least I could do.

Thursday, August 24, 2006

Casita de los Perros






Introducing Casita de los Perros; the mother of all dog houses (kind of).

When one marries a veterinarian who is also a breeder and handler of show dogs, one has to adjust. Especially one who has not had a pet in over 20 years.

So to preserve my sanity and keep the peace on the home front, I embarked on a project to build a space for five of our six dogs (Evita, the rescue dog, gets to stay in the house) on a far corner of the property. Since I was pouring a foundation I thought, what the heck, build on a little more to provide a planting area for seedlings and a place to house the potted plants during the winter months.

I also kept in mind that someone who does not need dog runs may one day buy this property so whatever we build should be convertible to a guest house with just a little work.

We went a little over budget but what the heck. (Click on the images to see them larger.)

Tuesday, August 22, 2006

Bay Area Visit





After our border ordeal, we picked up our rent-a-car and headed out for Robert and Rudy’s home. It was around midnight and the fog had settled over our destination, the Oakland hills. With visibility limited to a few feet in front of the bumper, I crept along only mildly comforted by the knowledge that Rodrigo had no idea that merely a few feet to our right was a thousand foot drop.

Robert greeted us when we arrived and we sipped wine as I shared our customs and immigration story.

The next morning at breakfast Rudy was pouring coffee. “I left the activities section of the newspaper in your room. Just in case you want see what is happening around town while you are here.”

“I hear there is a kiddie porn convention,” Robert said.


Our Bay Area visit was whirl-wind. We only planned a week and it should have been at least 10 days. In addition to catching up with friends in San Francisco we did the tourist gig for Rodrigo’s benefit. This included staying on Nob Hill, hiking Fisherman’s Wharf, shopping like wild men and of course, eating fresh crab at every opportunity. The end of our trip included a visit to the wine country in Napa Valley.

It was great to share my old environment with Rodrigo and he is ready to return any time. And I believe that it was Stew (a friend for more than 20 years) who said, “Tell Rod that if you do anything stupid and screw up this relationship he is always welcome at our home.”

Thursday, August 03, 2006

Porn at the Border


Allow me to briefly set the scene.

It is Rodrigo’s first trip to California and my first trip back after selling the house. We are only traveling for a week, so that I can meet with my tax guy and show Rod around a little. We have arrived at Oakland International Airport and are in Customs and Immigration.

“Are you returning from vacation?” the Immigration official asks me.
“No, actually I’m on vacation. I’m a resident of Mexico but used to live in Oakland.”
“What is your occupation?”
“I’m retired.”
“You’re a little young to be retired.”
“Well, I bailed out of corporate America and couldn’t afford to retire in the U.S. so I moved to Mexico.”

About this time he writes a strange number on my customs form and sends me on.

Once at customs a nice official chats me up while he performs the most invasive search of my luggage that I have ever experienced. He even took the lining out of my suitcase; something that I didn’t even know was possible (Velcro! Go figure!). About this time I’m getting annoyed because Rod has already cleared and is waiting for me in the terminal. And the whole time the official is making pleasant small talk.

Then he opens my laptop and turns it on. “May I ask what you are doing?”
“Looking for contraband, like child pornography. Do you have any pornography on your laptop?”
“Yes.” I say indignantly, like doesn’t everyone?
“Do you know the ages?”
“I don’t have a clue, it is just stuff that my old roommate downloaded from the internet and I never bothered to take off.” At this point I’m getting really nervous. Some of the photos are pretty young. I even have a folder entitled “Jail” because a few of the photos look questionable when it comes to age.
“I think we need to take this offline,” he says and pulls me into a private room with two other uniformed officials.

My heart is in my throat. Rodrigo is outside without any phone numbers or address of the people we are staying with, no credit card, nothing. I’m having visions of being hauled off to jail without being allowed to speak with him, all because I was too lazy to delete some old photos. I also feel violated. Like my privacy is being invaded.

I’m sitting in a small room while three guys in uniform are paging down through my porn. Finally one of them says, “I don’t see anything here that is a problem.” And the other two agree almost too quickly, like “Don’t make us look at any more of this!”

Then they all shake my hand and explain that they are sorry for inconveniencing me. “Please understand that we are not judging you, we are just doing our job. You do understand what we are looking for?”
“The really sick stuff I guess.”
“Exactly. Thank you so much for your cooperation. You can go now.”

My head was spinning as I pulled my luggage together and walked to freedom. Then it occurred to me and I pass this on as a travel tip:

Don’t travel to the U.S. with pornography on your laptop, in the same week that the press secretary for Homeland Security has just been charged on multiple counts for attempting to seduce a minor over the internet.

And be assured I’ve been doing some serious editing. I also think that I will not use the word “retired” anymore and I won’t make it evident that I’m traveling with a handsome Mexican some years younger than me. Talk about setting myself up!

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Christmas 2005


“Charles, this is Alan Kent.”
“How are you Alan?”
“I’m fine. I have good news for you. Your truck is now on Mexican roads. You should have your things on Christmas Eve. Merry Christmas.”
“Five days ago you told me that the truck was leaving the border that day.”
“Yes, but now it has.”

Needless to say, I put no stock in the stuff actually arriving on schedule. I didn’t want to have to explain to a three-year-old why there was no Christmas tree on Christmas so I needed a plan B. Frustrated, after looking for an artificial tree in four stores in two cities, I had to go to plan C.

Off to one side of the property, we have a row of five pine trees. I selected the least “Charlie Brown” looking of these and strung it with 400 white lights. I then ran about two hundred feet of extension cord from the outlet on the Barbeque. My plan was that, on Christmas Eve we would say, “I think I heard Santa outside!” Then we’d run outside and see the tree lit off in the distance. We’d run to that end of the property to find the gifts under the tree, load them into a wheelbarrow strategically (and conveniently) placed near the tree, and return to the house to open the gifts. What an exciting country experience this would be for a little girl from the city.

True to his word, for the first time, my stuff arrived at 9:30 AM on Christmas Eve. The back patio immediately became a disaster. Amidst the jumble of boxes and furniture I found my Christmas tree and ornaments. While I did inventory, Rodrigo and his cousin Chelo set up the tree in the living room.

Two of the shipping boxes had broken. Those containing all my personal files, income tax, insurance, mortgage, etc. It looked as if they’d been scattered down a dusty street. Three-year-old Elizabeth, determined to help, came carrying a cooking magazine and two porno magazines and said something I didn’t understand in Spanish. “She wants to know what kind of magazines these are,” Rodrigo translated. I quickly removed them from her tiny hands and said that they were not interesting and that she should look for others.

One of the movers handed me a cell phone. “Charles, this is Alan Kent. Can you pay the drivers the balance due?”

“Actually, no. I’m withholding $1,000 until you deliver my remaining things that are still in Oakland, at my friend’s house, and remove the boxes for that other guy that my friend has been storing for over a month. Also, I am not happy. Furniture is damaged, stained and some pieces, my favorites, are broken beyond repair. And it appears that I’m missing many boxes.”

“Yes, there are still 10 boxes of books, a chair and some kitchen items yet to come. Didn’t they tell you that?”

“No, they failed to mention anything.”

“Ok, that is fine. I will send a guy to look at the furniture. We deal with repairs all the time. Do not worry.”

“We’ll see.”

I handed the phone back to the mover just as my migraine began to really kick in. However, I resolved that this was Christmas and despite my disappointment with the timing and condition of my furniture, I was not going to spoil everyone else’s Christmas by moping around. The mattresses, bed frame, couch, television, stereo equipment and a lot of other stuff, would just have to sit on the patio for days, until I could find a place for them. Thank god no rain was in sight.

The question, “Can someone carve the turkey while I make the gravy?” was met with blank stares. No one had ever carved a turkey before. “Rodrigo, you’re a surgeon, it is not that difficult.”

“But I don’t know how.”

“Well watch because next year it is all yours.”

After dinner we heard the sound of a bell outside. Santa had arrived. We threw on our jackets and dashed out the back door to see the tree glowing in the distance, and ceremoniously looked into the sky for signs of Santa. Amid ooo’s and aaah’s we trudged across the property to the tree, retrieved the gifts and wheeled them back to the house.

Rodrigo came to me the next morning. “Melissa told Chelo that Santa was a bad boy yesterday, for leaving the gifts so far away.”

So much for two hundred feet of extension cords and the country touch.

My migraine lasted for four days but I powered through a barrage of holiday parties and dinners, unpacking boxes and moving furniture and rugs as time permitted. I have dispersed furniture and electronic equipment amongst friends until we are able to build a casita. Things are beginning to calm but I am still waiting for word on my remaining shipment.

As I sit here typing this, a dog that we are caring for lies by my feet. She smells. She was sprayed by a skunk last night and insists on following me everywhere.

Today I will redeem one of my gifts, a 1.5 hour massage. I need it.

Houses & Dogs


December 10, 2005

Today is my birthday. I woke up trying to remember how old I am. Is it 46 or is it 47? I hope it is 46 because 47 feels too much like downhill to 50. Yes, it is 46. I’ll wait until next year to be depressed.

This morning I was served breakfast in bed. I can’t remember the last time I received breakfast in bed. I’m not sure, aside from a hospital stay when my appendix was removed, if I was ever served breakfast in bed.

The gap in correspondence is because I returned to the states and sold the Oakland house. I was afraid that I’d missed the feeding frenzy of home sales that happened over the summer but I didn’t. The house was on the market for two weeks and I received four offers, all over my asking price.

The most attractive offer, the one I accepted, included a two week close of escrow. So I spent two weeks living off TV dinners and packing over 17 years of living. I couldn’t have done it without the help of Clare, Dean and Rudy. Thank you from the bottom of my heart.

During the process I would think, “Should I drag this to Mexico or not? What the heck, it is a 24 foot truck and I won’t come close to filling it so I’ll just take it and I can always give it away down there.” I expected movers with wrapping blankets, a hand truck, etc. What I got was a 15 foot truck, no wrapping blankets and only one guy.

Nearly everything fit but I have no idea in what condition it will arrive. Or for that matter when. It was supposed to take 10 days. It has been three weeks and as of yesterday, my stuff was still at the border in Tijuana. “There is nothing wrong with your shipment,” the moving company told me, “But in the other shipment we are combining it with they found, umm contraband. Is that a word? Contraband?”
“Yes, and not a very good word.”
“Well we expect to have it resolved soon.”

The reality is, I’ve lived three years without all these things so it wouldn’t be the end of the world if it never arrived. But it would suck to spend $6,000 USD for nothing. And I really want my Christmas decorations soon.

But my mood is so good that I’m not letting this bother me. I didn’t realize how keeping one foot in each country was wearing on me. The travel back and forth and always feeling like every trip back to the states was work. Finding new renters, conducting repairs on the house, figuring out what to do with my car (which I ended up giving to my niece), details, details. Letting go of the house was liberating.

Someone asked me if I felt nostalgic, a sense of loss, selling my first home. A home into which I’d poured so much sweat equity. I really think that the moving process is designed to ensure that this doesn’t happen. By the time I was finished I couldn’t wait to get out.

And for that matter, it is in my nature to constantly improve a property. And truth be told, I was done with that house. The future only meant re-doing things that had already been done. Maintenance, upkeep, not fun. Remodel, renovation, creating, fun. And I’ve plenty to do on the house here. The pergola was completed when I got home and I love it. Our architect is now designing a combination dog run, potting shed and green house and the landscaper came this week and is putting together a plan for the whole property that will probably take years.

This will be the first Christmas at the Ranchito. For that matter, it will be the first Christmas in about 20 years, that I’ll spend in my home, not traveling to someone else’s home. I’m really looking forward to the event. Rodrigo’s cousins are coming from Mexico City, with their 3 year old, Karla with Enya, who will be one year old in January, and our orphan friends (those who don’t have any family in the area). We should be about 12 for dinner on Christmas Eve and on Christmas day I’m planning an open house and inviting about 100 people. I’ve been avoiding the subject of New Year’s Eve because Rodrigo wants us to go to Mexico City and spend it with his family (which is huge). I’m not sure that I’m ready for that. I know that my Spanish is not.

Our latest bit of good news is that Rodrigo was approved for a tourist visa to travel in the U.S. So we hope to see everyone next year, on a trip when we can be tourists and I don’t have to worry about home repairs and such. His only experience in the U.S. was Michigan State University during a veterinary exchange program. I’m excited at the prospect of showing him California.

So to you and yours, wishing you very happy holidays from colonial Mexico and the herd here at the Ranchito:

Charles and Rodrigo, and of course, Tisha, Cosette, Hagrid, Evita, Fantine, Phoebe and Fazhou.

Gored by a Bull


We’ve had our first serious accident with a visitor. My longtime friend Demetrious came to visit from Los Angeles and within the first 24 hours of his stay he managed to get gored by a bull.

Now I don’t want anyone to get the impression that we have random bulls wandering the ranchito or the streets of San Miguel. But his visit happened to coincide with the annual Pomplonada, or, running of the bulls. While my friends and I huddled in front of a television to watch the event, Demetrious decided that he wanted to be in the thick of it, and take some photos with his new camera. Near the end of the event I received a call on my cell phone.

“Charles, this is Demetrious. I’m in the hospital. I got gored by a bull.”
“Yeah, right. Listen, are you going to meet us here at the bar or do you want to meet somewhere else?”
“Charles, I’m serious.”
“You’re kidding right? I mean, if you’re kidding you need to stop right now because this isn’t funny.”
“I’m dead serious. I got gored in the leg, twice, by a bull. I’m in the emergency room. Can you come get me?”

After establishing which hospital I walked into the emergency room just in time to see them putting him under, pant leg cut open to revealing two gaping wounds.

Long story short (the long version is his prerogative and he has already written about the experience from his perspective – much more vivid than mine), he is going to be fine. He will have two huge scars on his leg to remind him of his Mexican experience. He spent the night in the hospital, under observation, and was released the next day. Subsequent swelling and pain convinced us that he’d better cut his trip short and return to his doctors in the U.S.

He did get his picture. The rest of us just got drunk.


I ran into an old acquaintance. He and his family used to rent the house on Vergel before I did. We were at a gallery opening when he launched into a tirade about his wife leaving him, and their three adopted children, for an old high school sweetheart. He was on a rant.

“That guy better have his dick insured! She came back to me showing remorse and I told her to forget it. I’d never trust her again. I’ll take my chances.”
“You should do well here. There are a lot of middle aged single women in this town.”
“Yeah, it is like a friend told me, “The odds are good but the goods are odd.””

I thought that was a brilliant description.

Flies and Family


I kill flies. I’ve made it my personal mission, or new career of sorts.

I understand that the flies are part of ranch life. But it is a part that I do not embrace. Normally they are not bad. But one barbeque can summon them from neighboring ranches and they descend like a plague.

I’ve purchased fly swatters in a variety of colors and keep them like a bouquet in a vase. I pass them out to friends when they visit and we sit outside. But my friends lack my skill.

I’ve killed as many as five with one swat. Sometimes I swat the flies while they are on my friends. This has not gone over well.

I like to kill two at once, while they are mating. When this happens I feel that I have not only destroyed their coital bliss, I have also prevented future generations from ever haunting me.

I’m on my second handyman. Eleazar, the first one, vanished in the middle of painting the living room. Alex and Andrea showed up to play a board game and Eleazar bolted for the storage room. We took off to buy some cheese and when we returned, he was gone leaving open paint cans and wet brushes and roller. Hours later he still hadn’t returned.

“What was his name?” Alex asked.
“Eleazar.” I responded.
“I wonder if that is the same Eleazar that was our driver and we fired him for stealing.”
“This guy is young, married and lives in Rodriguez.”
“That’s the guy.”
“What did he steal?”
“He used to go out for supplies and make a deal with the store to up the amount on the receipts and then split the difference with the shop person.”

Clearly he recognized Alex and his car and whatever guilt he had was enough for him to abandon the job. And he seemed so nice, worked well and quickly. One just has to be careful. So now we have Roberto. He came highly recommended from some friends. But now I purchase all the materials myself.

I am learning how big families operate. I was raised as an only child and I find the dynamic is quite different. A few weeks ago seven members of Rodrigo’s family, five adults and two children, came for the weekend. I came home late from a party and expected to find people sleeping on couches throughout the house. Somehow, all seven packed into the two guest rooms. I know that there were air mattresses involved but I still don’t get how they did it.

After a dramatic wailing scene between Santiago, the four year old, and Melissa, the two year old, (cousins who had to be torn from each other’s arms) half the family was headed North while Aunt Chelito and cousins Pancho, Chelo and Melissa were to stay another night before heading back to Mexico City. Rodrigo went off to work and left me to take them to the botanical gardens. Quite a work-out for my Spanish as none of them speak English.

Speaking of speaking Spanish. If one is a beginner in a language, I don’t recommend going through a Kentucky Fried Chicken drive-thru in a foreign country. Trust me, after screaming your order into the crackly little speaker, you never know what will actually end up in your box. Go inside. It helps when you can point.

This weekend I hosted a baptism for my new god-daughter, Enya. Since the father, Maurico, was raised Catholic and is non-practicing, and the mother, Karla, was raised Mormon and is non-practicing, we had a non-denominational service performed by Rodrigo and my 75 year old friend, Reverend Nancy Anderson. Nancy read in English and Rod in Spanish. I had rented a tent and tables to accommodate 40 people and we were filled to capacity. Since the father is a bass player in a rock band, the crowd was quite interesting. I don’t think some had slept in awhile. I hired my maid’s family to cater the event. It was a wonderful day albeit long and draining.

Now Karla speaks English – lived in the states for a period of time. So when she said, “I will come back tomorrow and help you clean up,” I really thought that it would be just her and maybe Enya. We planned to heat up some leftovers for lunch. Instead, down the driveway come Mauricio, his cousin, Karla, Enya, Karla’s mom and Karla’s aunt. We already had Rodrigo’s cousin Gus staying with us. So the day I had envisioned myself lying on the couch and watching movies, ended up being dinner for eight adults. They stayed all afternoon, eating, drinking beer, reading magazines, talking, feeding the baby, etc. I learned later that this is common in this culture. They even have a word for it. “Recalentado” which means to re-heat. But it has evolved to mean, “The day after the big party when everyone shows up to eat the leftovers.”

I’m scared to death as to what Christmas will bring.

A Bat in the Bathroom


During a recent storm, the river behind the house flooded its banks slightly and came to within a few feet of the house. Rod and I surveyed the scene and seeing no impending danger, we found a dry spot in the house and put Bram Stoker's Dracula in the DVD player. As we’re sitting watching the film, something flies past the TV and into the guest bath. I sat there for a moment and thought, "Not another bird in the house!" But then it was moving almost silently. Maybe one of those big moths I've seen. So I walk into the bathroom, turn on the light, and guess what. A bat. How ironic is that? Watching Dracula and a bat is flying around the house. I have no idea how it got in. I’ve purchased a “Bat House” to encourage bats onto the property but I never invited them inside the house. (But the must prefer my house to theirs because their’s remains empty.)

So life in the country continues to offer its challenges. Almost daily we see rabbits hopping around the yard and they are probably the little bastards that are eating away at our vegetable garden. I was blaming them for devastating some of the lillys in the front yard until I saw a line of leaf-cutter ants carrying off the evidence. Later the same day I chased a snake off the front porch as Mary, our maid, watched through the glass doors.

Speaking of Mary, her brother invited us to his son’s tres aƱos. A birthday party for a three-year-old like I’ve never seen before. It was held in a local reception hall and there were about 150 guests, almost all family. And Mary says that it represents only about one quarter of the family. Her mother was there and told us that she is grandmother to 30 grandchildren. The party started at 4:00 and went on until 4:00 the next morning. (We only lasted until about 9:00 PM.) I and my friend Marc were the only gringos at the party and I was a little embarrassed as Mary and Celia (Marc’s maid and Mary’s sister) saw to it that we were served first. There was music, children’s games, piƱatas, food, cake, and of course, beer and tequila for the adults. I understand that after we left, there was dancing. (Not because we left, just because it was time.) I very much wanted to kidnap one of the children. I mean, with a family so large, would they really notice?

Ranch Life


“So you remember Sebastian from the party?” Andrea asked as we were lying on the lounge chairs in the back yard, on what we fondly call our periodic “Charles and Andrea love each other day”.

“Yes, he was that good looking German boy, Sophia’s friend from Hamburg.”

“Well you know that he has some big corporate job and quit to take another. He told Sophia that before he starts his new job he has two weeks vacation and wants to do something that he has never done before. So she invited him to stay out at the ranch. He jumped at the chance even though he doesn’t speak any Spanish, and is going to be working out there, helping out. Sophia is still in Argentina with her mom, Regina, so Alex and I took Sebastian out to the Ranch yesterday. You know the spot right before the hacienda, where the river is? Well now the river is completely dry. Not even the soil is wet. So we’re driving up and on the other side of the river, right in front of the hacienda, a dead cow.” Andrea held her arms up, “Legs straight up in the air, all bloated, flies everywhere. And you know Lobo? She had 13 puppies so there are about 20 dogs running all over the place, toys from Mary Elena’s six kids scattered all over the court yard, the bathroom a mess, just horrible.”

“Oh my god. And Sebastian is from one of the most beautiful and pristine cities in Europe.”

“Exactly. But he took it all in stride, kept saying how amazing and beautiful it was. And all I could think was “gross.” You know it is because Regina has not been there for over a month. They need a boss. Someone to tell them what to do. How do you say it? While the cat is away the mice are playing?”

“Close enough.”

So we go inside to introduce Sebastian and get him settled and start taking notes to call Regina. With no rain they’re running out of food and water for the cattle, they don’t know what to do . . . What water is left is stagnant and making them sick. Anyway, we come back out and by now the dogs have gotten into the dead cow. Bloody dogs everywhere. And Poopaw, you remember little Poopaw? She is INSIDE the cow’s butt, head buried inside, tail wagging. Oh Charles, it was so gross. And the smell!”


While life at the ranchito is not as rustic as a real ranch, we’ve had our share of country living. The first big rain storm found us scurrying around the house with bowls and towels, moving furniture, drying dogs. It also left us without power for a few hours and without a phone for four days. Then the critters began coming out.

Ever heard of June bugs? Someone told me that is what they are. These little flying beetles that commit suicide in the fountain and pond and leave a layer of carcasses on the front patio from slamming into the lights. Hundreds of them all appearing in one night. Then the next day swarms of birds had a buffet in the front yard and now there are hardly any.

Rod brought a tortoise home that he almost ran over, about the size of your palm, and we set it loose in the rock garden. He later found a five foot snake in the back yard that slithered off and we don’t know where it went. A few minutes later we watched a tarantula swagger across the patio. Two ducks were in the pond the other morning and there is something that we can hear scurry very quickly across the roof several times during the day and night.

Next?

Barra de Navidad


“Don’t go to Vallarta,” Marcos said, “Vallarta is not a place for a romantic getaway.”

“I think you should go to Acapulco,” Armando said, “Acapulco is great. I remember the days when you could sit down at a table and say to the waiter, “I’d like a martini, a gram of coke and a boy.” And the waiter would say “Si SeƱor,” and you got it.”

“Well, that’s not exactly the kind of vacation we’re looking for either. We were thinking something more remote, palapas on the beach kind of thing. What do you know about Bara de Navidad? Rod has been there and likes it.”

“Don’t know it,” Marcos said, “But I hear that it’s nice. I like Vera Cruz.”

“I don’t want to go to Vera Cruz,” Rod said. So plans were laid for Bara de Navidad.

“You’ll be going through Guadalajara,” Victor said, “So you should stop and check out the Icipali furniture place. My mother and sister are also living there and could show you around.”

We packed up the SUV, turned the house and little car over to Christine and gave her instructions for the staff and the animals. “We’ll be back on Friday evening, after the girls and the gardener have left. So I’ve left envelopes in the buffet with their names on them. If you could just put them out on Friday. I’ll pay Mary on Saturday.”

So off we went, at the crack of noon.

The drive to Guadalajara is about three hours and took us through plains of blue agave fields (the cactus used to make tequila). Rod had us scheduled to meet with Jose Antonio, or “Gordis” as Rod calls him, an affectionate name for a fat person, who is another dog breeder and handler. Most of the evening they spent rattling on about different dogs and gossip about different kennel club members. I didn’t mind not understanding much as had the conversation been in English I probably would have been equally bored. Gordis then took us to the Icipali furniture factory where I ordered furniture for the front patio.

The next morning Victor’s mother, sister and two nieces, ages 6 and 8, met us at our hotel. After a brief discussion as to where to have breakfast, we set out to a popular spot a couple of blocks away. The 6 year old walked up to me and took my hand and didn’t let go all the way to the restaurant. When we arrived at our table, her mother asked her where she wanted to sit. “Next to him,” she said in Spanish. Before the meal was over she was in my lap, her sister standing next to my chair as we pointed to things and traded words in Spanish and English. I wanted to steal them both.

After breakfast we kissed the girls goodbye, eliciting promises that they would come to San Miguel soon, and continued on. We crossed plains of dry lake beds throwing up dust tornados, past the impressive Colima volcano (which has since erupted and still is) and began to see roadside stands selling fruit and candies. And then as if someone had drawn a line on the landscape, we entered the tropics.

Bara de Navidad was like a time warp, like stepping into a beach community from the 60’s. A lagoon on one side and bay on the other, and then in contrast, a huge five star resort, Grand Bay I think it is called, sat perched on the peninsula. The town only has two main streets, one on the lagoon side and one on the ocean side. On the lagoon side we ate dinner over the water and watched blow fish snack on scraps tossed to them by customers. Our hotel looked out over the bay side where hardly a soul was on the beach. It was strange for me to see so much empty sand in such a beautiful setting.

“I noticed when we were at the bar that you didn’t talk to the other Americans that we saw,” Rod said, “Don’t you like your culture.”

“I heard those guys talking by the pool today,” I replied, “One of them said, “The only thing that could make is place better is more naked chicks.” That’s not exactly my culture and I don’t think we’ve a lot in common.”

We decided to live large for an evening and made reservations at the best restaurant at the fancy resort. At the water taxi station, security called to confirm our reservation and then we were given tickets for the return. After crossing the lagoon inlet we were greeted at the dock and passed through pristine gardens, multiple water falls and swimming pools and reached the elevator where we ascended several floors to the restaurant. It felt strange being surrounded by such elegance. Also, being low season, we were practically the only people at the resort and were the only people at the restaurant. We kept giggling as waiters fluttered around us (having no one else to serve and nothing else to do). And I have to admit, it was one of the better meals that I’ve ever had.

On the drive back temperatures reached 107. We stopped at roadside stands and sampled strange fruits that I’ve never seen or tasted before. Everywhere people were gracious and in good humor, despite the heat. We spent the night outside Guadalajara and after shopping the next morning, we returned to San Miguel.

Shortly after we arrived at the Ranchito, Christine returned from her teaching job. “You’re cramping my style,” she said, “You’re early.”

“It’s five o’clock,” I thought to myself. Then I noticed the envelopes for the staff on the buffet. “Why haven’t you paid the girls and Fidel?” I asked.

“Because it is only Thursday,” Christine replied.

Rod and I looked at each other in disbelief. “No it’s not,” I said, “It’s Friday.”

“Umm, Hello! I ought to know. I have to work tomorrow.”

“We could have stayed another day at the beach!” Rod said, “Take me back.”

The opening of Rodrigo’s new clinic was last Friday night. The day before I asked him to call my father’s doctor and invite her. She, her husband and son came to the party and presented us with two coffee mugs. On the front was the logo for Rod’s business and the name of the clinic, and on the back of one cup his name, mine on the other. Her husband had driven by the building that morning, copied the logo and made the cups before coming to the party. I continue to be impressed by the kindness and accepting nature of this community.

Friday, July 28, 2006

Death of the Father


I looked at my watch. 5:00 PM, Wednesday. A little more than two years ago, 5:00 PM on a Wednesday would have meant that I was sitting in my office prioritizing my Franklin Planner task list for the next day, and contemplating my walk to BART. Today I’m speeding across the Mexican countryside in my pathfinder, returning from a neighboring village. The back of the 4 X 4 is loaded with building materials for my ranchito. Dozing in the passenger seat is my attractive, 28 year old Mexican boyfriend, his slender light brown hand resting on my thigh as the Three Tenors blares on the CD player. Surreal. It is hard to believe that a life can change so dramatically, so quickly.

Months have passed since the paragraph above was written. It seems that when happiness comes, the balance of grief is not far behind.

First, let me thank everyone for your kind words of condolence after the death of my father. While I wept at my screen, it was really therapy. Since his death, I’ve been in a rather poor space. A sort of fog that then became an illness. After antibiotics, antidepressants and lots of bed rest, I’m a little better now. But the grieving is far from over and I have good days and bad.

Dad came to me with fluid in his lungs, after a fall in Eureka that cracked one of his ribs. Shortly after he arrived, he developed bronchitis. We cured that but his energy and breathing never recovered. And then his mind began to play tricks on him.

“Amigo, who were all those people here last night?”
“What people dad?”
“There were all these people dressed in black, wandering around the casita.”
“Rod, Christine and I were watching a movie down stairs, otherwise no one was here.”
“It seemed so real.”

And another day:

“Mary, get that information they left. Look in the drawers. It was printed on a tee shirt.” Dad said in English to his nurse who speaks none.
“Dad, what are you looking for?”
“This morning two personal trainers got out of my shower. One was a beautiful blond and the other a dark man. They rested a bit, probably because they needed to after the shower, if you know what I mean. The man told me about a gym membership with only a few more spaces left. I think it might be a good deal. The information was printed on a tee shirt that must be around here someplace.”
“Dad, I’m having a hard time believing that two personal trainers took a shower here.”
He looked at Mary and smiled. “She knows more than she’s telling.”
Mary smiled and looked a little confused.
“Here’s the deal. No matter how good the program was, we’re not signing up. You’re not in any shape to go to a gym. You can’t even get up and down the stairs. I want you to start walking on the roof and getting your strength back. Once you’re in shape, we can look into going to a gym and I’m sure that what ever deal they were offering, we can find a comparable one once you’re ready.”
“O.k. Amigo.”

Shortly thereafter we moved Dad downstairs. The weather had warmed up plus the casita was rented so we didn’t have any choice. He only made it down the first few steps and after that, Rod, Mary and I carried him to his bed. His legs just gave out. He had not a lick of energy to spare.

We now had an oxygen tank (which after days of looking all over San Miguel, found the requisite regulator two blocks from the house in an unmarked new business), a humidifier and around the clock nursing care. We didn’t like the attitude of the first doctor so we did some research, with the help of a retired U.S. doctor now living in Mexico, and found a geriatric specialist. Dr. Jessica had a great bedside manner, looked him over far more thoroughly than the previous doctor, and agreed to take the case.

He was sleeping a great deal. I told one of the nurses that it must be pretty boring, sitting there while he is sleeping and they should all feel free to step out of the room, read a book, watch T.V., whatever. Rodrigo translated, “Sometimes he reaches out for their hand in his sleep and they want to be there for him.” At night, one of the nurses slept on a mattress on the floor next to his bed.

“Sometimes I can’t tell them apart”, Dad told me (they’re all sisters), “But the one during the day gives the best massage.”

We put Dad in a chair while we placed the water mattress on the bed. “When can I get back in bed?” he asked.
“All you’re doing is lying in bed. That is why we need this special mattress. You’re getting bed sores.”
“Well I think I deserve it today.”
“Why’s that?”
“Because I found 20 jackets for the Australians.”
“World War II,” I thought to myself. And as we lifted him back into the bed he said, “You can just put the lamb here in my lap.”
“What lamb is that dad?”
“Susan was here earlier with a lamb.”
“Well, we don’t have any lambs here right now but I can provide you with a very affectionate cocker spaniel if you’d like.”
He smiled, “That’s ok.”

The night he died, two nurses, Rodrigo and Christine were there. We went into the room. He was sleeping but every breath sounded labored. “I don’t really know what a death rattle sounds like,” I said, “But if you were to ask me what he is doing right now is pretty much what I’ve always imagined.”
“Yes” was all that Christine said.

We were sitting in the kitchen moments later when one of the nurses rushed in and told us to call the doctor immediately. We ran to my father’s bedroom and I saw the head nurse (Celia) with a stethoscope on his chest shaking her head. I fell to my knees and grasped his hand as he exhaled his last breath. I wept like a Greek widow. (In fact, if Greek widows want grieving lessons, I can provide them.) I didn’t care who was there, who was listening, whatever. This was the man who was my pillar in life, the man who had come back from every former death scare and continued to be my father. I kept thinking, “We’re not done! You haven’t lived at the house I’m building for you!” Celia held his mouth closed as I wept and wailed.

The rest of the night is kind of a fog. It was nearly midnight on a work night as friends began to fill the house. I looked over as Cynthia and Victor lifted their pant legs and compared pajamas. Cynthia’s were a flower pattern while Victor had little space men. The doctor arrived, the men from the crematorium, Rodrigo handled it all as I stared into my wine glass. The other nurses arrived.

The next morning the doctor came back with all the requisite paperwork. I was a jellyfish in bed. Rodrigo took care of everything.

That afternoon Marcos called. “We’re with your dad. They are about to cremate him. Do you want to come?”
“No. I want to remember him like he was. I don’t want that image.”
“I understand. And I want you to know that Mary is here. She has never left him. She hasn’t slept all night.”

And that night people came with food and support. The nurses requested photos of Don Carlos that I printed off of my computer. The next day they delivered his ashes in a simple wood box. It seemed so light compared to the man that we carrier to bed only a few days before.

A few weeks later Rodrigo and I went to see his new nephew in Cuernavaca, and to meet his parents. I had a little meltdown when I realized that we were going to have to visit the family for a third time. “We’re not going to see them tomorrow so we need to have dinner with them tonight.”

I’d already endured two meetings. There was the initial meeting and then the “comida” the next day where everyone ran to visit with the new baby upstairs and left me alone downstairs. No one in the family speaks English and my Spanish was barely good enough for a wine conversation with the ex-monk father while the bible-pounding Catholic mother served the meal. But then I had a revelation of sorts. I’m whining about meeting the parents while Rodrigo, at 28 years old, has dealt with dying, death, doctors, funeral homes, etc., all for me, and has not missed a beat. I’m stressing over meeting the rather un-excepting family. Let’s put things in perspective.

When we got to the hotel I closed the door and fell to my knees. “I need to beg your forgiveness. After all that you have done for me I was so selfish. I know that this is important to you and I have been a bad partner. Please forgive me.” Rodrigo pulled me to my feet. “Don’t ever do that again. I know what you’re going through. You don’t need to apologize.”

Where are we now? As I was leaving the ranchito, Mary, my father’s primary caregiver whom we’ve hired to manage the house, said something in Spanish to me about my father’s ashes.
“Rod, can you come here for a minute. I don’t understand what Mary is saying about dad’s ashes.”
Mary repeated what she’d said to Rodrigo.
“She wants to say goodbye to his ashes.”
I took the box out of my bag and set it on the table. Mary bent down and kissed the box, “Adios Don Carlos”, she said while patting the box. I then fell apart for a spell.

Now I’m off the antibiotics, off the antidepressants and am taking care of business. I’ve brought my dad’s ashes to the U.S., done my taxes and, as the trustee, I am working on settling the estate. I only gave myself 10 days in the U.S. Otherwise, fax, email, etc., will have to suffice.

Rod and I are living at the ranchito with six dogs and one cat. (He is not only a vet but a handler and a breeder.) Building and infrastructure challenges persist, as does the random brush fire. The rainy season is around the corner. It can’t come soon enough for me although I know that it will present yet new challenges.

Fire and Fortune


Before returning to the states, I had hired a personal assistant. Alejandro (yes, the one who trashed my apartment last year) owed me money and I thought that I could deduct what he owed me from his weekly paycheck. It had occurred to me that I was relaying too much on my bi-lingual friends to help me with the construction project so I thought that this made sense. (He does prattle on in a metaphysical, existential kind of way but I’m learning how to tune him out. He is after all, only 21 years old and spent the last six months banging chicks in Cancun and now he has to tag along with a middle-aged gringo.)

Both Alejandro and I thought it might be a good idea to get a Mexican driver’s license. When we asked what it would take I found out that I’d have to take a written test, in Spanish. So Alejandro asked if they had a book that we could study from. Yes, they did. One, only one, which they reluctantly loaned to us so that we could go take copies. (I think I’ll deal with this next year.)

I was driving back from the ranchito with Alejandro and Brian when we passed a restaurant where someone was being taken out on a stretcher and stuffed into an ambulance. “Don’t eat there,” was Brian’s comment.

Alejandro’s job with me was probably the cushiest job he ever worked. It turned out that aside from the occasional translation services at the ranch he mostly helped me shop. Sometimes I’d have him make me breakfast. The day before I left for the states I gave him two weeks’ pay and told him, “Your job for the next two weeks is to find yourself another job.”

After a brief stay in Oakland my cousins and I collected Dad at the San Francisco airport. I explained at the ticket counter that he needed a wheelchair and that he was traveling alone. They gave me a gate pass so that I could meet him. He teared up a bit when I asked him about leaving Eureka. Apparently my nephew had gotten very emotional at his departure and it clearly affected Dad. This is very tough on the family as at 92 years old, there is the prospect that they will never see him again.

That night, at the Mexicana ticket counter, the agent recognized me. “I’ve checked you in before.” I explained that I have traveled back and forth a great deal and that now I was taking my father down to live with me. He looked over my shoulder at my father in his wheelchair and promptly bumped us up to first class.

I returned to the house on Vergel to find that Evita, my dog that I saved from the wilderness, had learned several things while I was away. How to bark, how to howl, and that there is a cat that walks across the wall at one end of the courtyard that she clearly wants to eat. Exhausted from the trip I wanted nothing but to sleep. The dog kept barking and jumping at the wall. To elevate herself she hopped up on the edge of the fountain and was running laps around it when I heard the splash. I beat her to the door just before she dragged her soaking body into the house.

Dad is settling in fairly well. The problem here is that the temperature at night has dropped to freezing and the heat sources in the house are not sufficient to keep him warm. He was spending most of his days in front of a heater. My sister and niece arrived before Christmas. “He has this sore on his butt that you have to dress every day,” my sister explained.
“I’m not doing that,” I said.
“You get used to it.”
“I don’t want to get used to it. I’m not doing that. I’ll hire someone to do that.”

One day Dad said, “I need the bandage on my butt changed.”
“I’ll send my sister right over.” (I ended up doing it.)

Christmas was very casual. Seven month pregnant Karla came over with her husband Mauricio and we had a great traditional gringo dinner. Karla told Dad that he shouldn’t eat too much garlic because it will make him fart. Then she told us about a tonic that her mother made for her using herbs and Karla’s own urine. “She made a tonic for Mauricio too.”

I looked at Mauricio. “Dude, you’re drinking your own pee.”

“It’s good!” he said.

One night my niece Susan was sitting at the computer while I sat in a chair with Evita in my lap. My father was sitting in his chair across from me. Susan asked me if Evita’s vet bills were expensive. I explained that Rodrigo, my vet, wanted to support my effort to save her and I had a hard time getting him to accept any money. Then I said, “And then he became my boyfriend and now it is impossible.” Dad got a big smile on his face.

Marcos called a couple days ago and asked if I’d been out to the ranch. “Not today,” I told him.
“Then you don’t know about the fire?”
“What fire?”
“There is a brush fire out in that area. It has been burning all day. Your house is fine but as we speak, your yard is on fire.”

I rushed out to the property with my sister and niece. Sure enough, one entire side of the property and around the back had burned. But just the grass, all the trees were fine. However, there were still hot spots, a couple of fence posts were on fire and a grass fire was spreading up towards the back of the house dangerously close to a pile of lumber. My sister and I spent the next several hours dragging a hose around the property while my niece stood on a dirt pile and watched a fiesta and horse race at the neighboring horse ranch.

Dad has bronchitis right now and it has me a little worried. The doctor has been here twice and she says that he is improving. His breathing is extremely labored but she says that it is to be expected. We moved him up to the casita where it is warmer and he is much more comfortable. He can’t leave, however, as he can’t handle the stairs down. I feel a little like I’ve locked him in a tower like poor Ruppenzel and he doesn’t have any hair to let down.

Last night Rodrigo and I got back to the house after dinner and we went up to check on Dad. Despite the fact that it was 1:00 in the morning I could tell that he was awake. I went in and sat on the edge of the bed. Rodrigo stood in the doorway. Dad seemed a little disoriented and was explaining something about forgetting his mantra. “But I found my book and now I remember it.” Then he looked over at Rodrigo. “Thank you for taking care of my son,” he said. (I almost cried. What changes our lives have taken.)

Dogs and Tiles


So I’ve been trying to pick out the tile for the house, the whole house. It is a little daunting because once it goes down, if I don’t like it, it is no one’s fault but my own. Plus, walking into the tile store and trying to obtain samples from a 16 year old girl who prefers to add numbers on her cell phone calculator than to use the perfectly good adding machine sitting right next to her, can get on one’s nerves.

Fortunately, I met an interior designed from Houston who volunteered her assistance. She is a 34 year old buxom dizzy blond pot head but when it comes to picking out tile samples she is a dynamo. I also believe that she stopped me from making a very big mistake on color. She is only here until Friday but I think we nailed down our choices yesterday so tomorrow I need to go place the order. However, first I need to meet with the builders, find out how many square meters of each and then go to the tile store and try to negotiate a discount given the size of my order (living room, dining room, kitchen, hallways, three bedrooms and two bathrooms). And all in Spanish unless I can find someone to translate for me.

The workers are nearly done removing all the paint from the stone and have started smoothing the non-stone walls. I imagine about one or two more weeks on the interior before they start putting the house back together. I’ve already purchased a stove, refrigerator, two queen beds, two microwaves (one for the future casita), a blender, comforter, pillows, one sink, and flatware. They are all in storage until the house is ready to receive. But I still need to buy sink pedestals, toilets, plumbing hardware, etc. The list seems endless.

Tapete, the volunteer dog, appears to be gone. However, I was out at the ranchito with Christine and Erin, looking at our tile samples. I said, “Lets step into the office and discuss our choices,” the office being a plastic table on the back patio. As we approached the table Christine said, “Who’s that?” and pointed to a purebred cocker spaniel curled up in the corner. I asked the workers if she belonged to anyone and they said no, she did not. Upon closer look, she was all skin and bones, problems with her eyes and feet and something on her snout that looked like the result of a fight. I went and got the dog dishes and dog food (previously purchased for Tapete) and put water and food out for her. She crawled from the corner, her fir like dread locks, ate, and then returned to the corner. This was Friday and since then I’ve been feeding her.

I spent the weekend largely at a dog show. It was difficult to see how well cared for the show dogs were and then to go up and feed my ratty little cocker. So I bought her a bed at the show and Marcos and Victor came up with their little mutt “Rhonda”. The cocker came out of the corner to meet Rhonda and then walked over and put her nasty little infected feet on my lap and looked into my eyes. So today, my vet friend Rodrigo came out with his kit. He says that she is only about 3 years old. She has eye infections, ear infections, infections on her feet and nose. We started the antibiotics and anti-inflammatory today. (House call and medicine, total $25 USD.) Thursday he will pick her up, sedate her and shave her completely. We think she can be saved. So I guess now we need to name her.

Today was “Dia de los Muertos” (Day of the Dead) so most places were closed for business (including my maids and workers). I spent the morning at the ranchito and really didn’t want to drag myself out of the hammock (once the vet left) but went and had a lovely lunch with Alex, Andrea, Melanie, Alejandro and Alejandro’s mother (her 67th birthday) and then we all went to the cemetery. As like last year, an amazing spectacle as people poured in to share that day when the veil between the living and the dead is most thin. Graves were decorated, some hired bands to play music for their deceased, one grave included tequila, a disk player and headphones. The gringo side of the cemetery was empty and many gringo friends said, “When I go, bury me on the Mexican side. For them it is about life.”

I should be back in the states for a brief visit (and to renew my tourist visa and California driver’s license) around the 28th of November. I haven’t decided when I’ll be returning to Mexico yet so I’ll probably purchase a one-way ticket. Ticket prices are through the roof in December but at the same time, I suspect that I will be at the detail stages on the remodel down here and can’t afford to be away long.

You’ll all probably be watching the election results tonight. There are several events covering them here in town but the word is that nothing will be decided until mid-day tomorrow. So I’ll skip the social scene tonight and stay in (I don’t have U.S. television) and check the results on the internet tomorrow. Something tells me that I may have a lot more visitors evaluating the prospects of living abroad.

Golf at the Ranchito


We’ve been trying to think of a name for the ranch, my friends and I. Nothing seemed to feel right. The old name was Rancho Obregon, after the family who owned the entire area. But everything we came up with seemed trite or overused. (Alejandro wants me to call it the “O Gay Corral”.) My workers passed me their invoice for the weeks work and at the top of the page it read, “Rancho del Padre” – Ranch of the father. I was so touched. They remembered our conversations about me creating a home for my father in San Miguel and came up with the name themselves. Plus, everyone says that it fits even for me because I’m such a “Dad” to all the young people in my circle of friends down here.

The first day that I had the place to myself, I was standing in the yard when I detected movement out of the corner of my eye. The cutest little female dog came crouching down the driveway, tail curled around. The tenants had told me that there was a sweet red dog that came by to be fed in the evenings and asked if I would continue to feed her. This was the dog. So off I went to the market to buy dog food. She came back again when I had a little party to celebrate getting the place. One has to lie on the ground to get close enough to pet her. We named her “Tapete” which means “Rug” because she approaches close to the ground, like a moving rug. I haven’t seen her since construction started so I fear that she may have been scared away.

We’re two weeks into construction. Actually it is demolition right now so every day it looks worse. My life has changed dramatically. To bed by 11:00, up by 8:00, lists of things to do, purchase, investigate. The good news, six workers working from 8:00 in the morning to 6:00 in the evening, five days a week, plus a half a ton of sand and cement, less than $900.00 USD. (But I’m not being fooled, materials and furnishing the place is what is going to get me. I do, after all, have exceptional taste.) I found it funny that one day I arrived at lunchtime to find a fire built in one corner of the yard and the workers roasting corn.

I’ve asked the architect to give me his ideas where I should put a swimming pool, pool house and casita on the property. Monday he is meeting with Marcos and I with his vision, and then we are going to the tile store to show him the master bath that I want. I keep increasing the scope of work so who knows when this project will be done. I have a lease on the rental house until May of next year and it may take every day of that. Instead of just making the main house livable, I’m remodeling everything. Every room, every bathroom, the kitchen, the patios, etc. And this is all before the pool and casitas. It is just far easier to get the messy stuff out of the way when one is not living on the premises. The out buildings will have to wait until the main house is ready.

Data point: Since purchasing the property and bringing friends out there, people are asking me if other lots are for sale. And there are. There is something so tranquil about the area; I never want to go back into town when I’m out there.

A flat tire took half a day to remedy but having the tire changed twice (temporary tire on, then temporary tire off) and having it repaired cost a total of around $10.00 USD. They didn’t charge me at the Nissan repair place for the tire changes, “Just tip the boy 20 pesos.” If you don’t put a value on your time, and do it the Mexican way, you can find some cheap deals. And the system, as well. I purchased the Pathfinder with a cracked windshield that got progressively worse given the terrain here. When I ordered a new one from the Nissan service station the woman asked if I had insurance. I said yes, I did. She said I’d only have to pay 20% of the cost if I claimed it on my insurance. But the crack was there before I got the insurance. She shrugged and asked, “What else is insurance for?” New windshield, $85.00 USD.

When I arrived at the ranch this afternoon (Saturday, no workers) I burst out laughing as I drove through the gate. Paola was giving Christina a golf lesson in front of the house. Paola’s mother was lounging in the hammock. We spent the day under the trees (it is about 80 degrees this time of year), eating and hitting golf balls and playing soccer with Pancho, a 10 year old neighbor of Paola’s mother. Pancho is 10 but looks five. Paola’s mother, a doctor, believes that it is due to malnutrition at some critical stage in his life or during his mother’s pregnancy. He is one of 10 children. At one point Christina fashioned a belt for him out of some rope because his pants kept falling down while he was playing. Paola’s mother pays for all his school clothes and materials and brought him his first birthday cake when he turned nine.

I want to chronicle all that is happening, every impression, vision, challenge, success, and lesson. But my days are being eaten up. I found myself on the verge of tears while sitting in my realtor’s office complaining about the failure of the notario to produce the “title deed” for the house. I told them that my father is 92 years old and that this is affecting his health and the tears started to well up. (Marcos tells me that it is the stress of the remodel and that I will get better as I get used to it.) The realtor assures me that I’m not the only one in this boat; he has a list of clients that are waiting, some with million dollar plus properties. Real estate here has gone up 30% in one year. The market is hot and the city and notarios can’t handle the volume. Plus, this notario is going through a divorce and they think that might have something to do with it. Our next plan is for me to pitch a tent in front of the office with a sign on the outside that says, “Waiting for Title Deed.”

Bob and Karen were here for their third visit. They bought an amazing lot and are going to build an amazing house (don’t be in a hurry for your title deed). I’m so excited that we’re going to be neighbors. Actually, it is not as if they are going to live next door, they’re in town. But only maybe 10 minutes away. So far, no one is far away. But the town is growing by leaps and bounds. And Victor, my friend and real estate agent, tells me that he hopes that Bush gets re-elected because it is great for his business. All the fed-up gringos buying homes in Mexico.

Driving, etc.


Driving in Mexico is proving to be interesting. Andrew says that they don’t have so much “Traffic Laws” but rather “Traffic Suggestions.”

For example, “Yield” means almost nothing at all. If it means anything, it is more like “Accelerate rapidly into fast moving traffic”. “Alto” or Stop means that other cars are probably coming and one should accelerate or decelerate as required to fit into the flow. A red light works about the same way. “Alto Completo” or Stop Completely means Yield. Speed limit signs are easy. Just double them.

“No Estacionamiento” or No Parking does mean No Parking and the police will take your license plates. When one returns to one’s car and finds it without plates, one must find the requisite Transito office in that particular city to pay the fine after which the plates are returned (if they can find them).

Backing down the street can circumvent the complexity of a one-way street when there is no oncoming traffic.

If you see a sign depicting a picture of a bull, there will be a bull in the road at some point, guaranteed. Even if you don’t see a sign, there is a good chance there will be a bull or a goat, donkey, chicken, dog, horse or even a person. And this is on the freeways.

Slow moving trucks are a challenge. Most of the roads are only two lanes so one has to pull out into the lane of oncoming traffic in order to pass. Truckers are very helpful and will turn on their left turn signal as a sign that it is safe to pass. (However, on rare occasions they are actually turning left so one has to be very cautious.)

On multi-lane roads, the little white dotted lines that divide the lanes mean nothing. The entire road belongs to everyone and everyone should use as much of it as possible. Some times they don’t even bother with lines and one just needs to determine whether one fits or not.

I believe that “Topes” or speed bumps were invented in Mexico and they are very proud of them. They appear at random and are marked about 50% of the time. If one doesn’t wish to become airborne, it is good to have a Tope spotter in the passenger seat.

Pick-up trucks with open beds should include an entire family in the open bed. A horse is also a viable alternative.

Motorcycles should be ridden without a helmet. It is also preferable to balance a small child on the handlebars.


Cynthia invited me to accompany her on a trip to Queretero. She was shopping for supplies for her hotel and this was before I had a car so I jumped at the chance.

Our first stop was Home Depot where I purchased a toilet seat at a very reasonable price. Second stop was Costco where I bought a couple of small items and Cynthia filled two carts. Back out at her car she opened the back of her PT Cruiser, folded down the back seats and proceeded to demonstrate her expert packing skills. While doing so she turned to me, “I put the toilet seat on the roof,” she said. I acknowledged her comment and went around to the passenger side to put my small stash under the front seat. I heard the back door slam and we both climbed in. Off we went to another store where we purchased hard to find food items.

As we were leaving town, a thought occurred to me. “Did you put the toilet seat back in the car?”

“You’re kidding, right?” was her response. I just gave here a blank stare.

We pulled over and poked around inside the car to see if one of us had unconsciously put it inside. On the top of the pile was a 50-pound bag of dog food that Cynthia had picked up for one of her employees. It proved difficult to maneuver around the bag and we felt reasonably certain that a toilet seat was not to be found. So we drove back to the Costco parking lot to see if there was a toilet seat lurking anywhere. Spotting nothing Cynthia pulled into a space near the entrance. Two men where sitting in the shade of a tree, talking. Cynthia got out to go inside to see if anyone had turned it in.

I decided to take one more look so I got out and opened the rear passenger door. As I was moving the bag of dog food it caught on the edge of a box and began to tear. Dog food started to spill out. The more I tried to move the bag to stop the flow, the more it tore. Dog food began spilling out into the parking lot. The two men stopped talking and just watched as I wrestled with the bag, attempting to turn it over as a cascade of the stuff rolled down my front and spilled out onto the ground. I managed to flip the bag over by which time it was split completely in half on one side. I shoveled as much back in as I could.

Cynthia returned empty handed and we went back to Home Depot and bought another toilet seat.

Suffice to say that we had to keep the windows open the entire ride back to San Miguel as the smell of dog food was overpowering. Cynthia found little nuggets of the stuff in her car for weeks to come. And every time we return to Costco, we keep an eye open for that toilet seat.


On Thursday I attended a potluck a few doors down from my house. It was hosted by Beverly, a psychologist and one of the founders of “Life Path”. (Life Path is sort of a self-help organization here and the party was for current and former graduates. I am neither but I know several people who have been through the program as well as the four people who run the retreats.)

It was an interesting event, attended by about 30 people. A Mexican boy met everyone at the door and took our dishes into the kitchen. The food was excellent and conversation was typical of gringo social events. “How long have you lived in San Miguel? What brought you here?” Etc.

After everyone had consumed food and drink there was a call to attention as Joseph, Michael and Beverly stood in a line at one end of the living room. Beverly asked everyone to introduce himself or herself and to say a few words about their Life Path experience. As everyone spoke I noticed that the training must include some kind of numerology as nearly everyone started with, “Hi, my name is such and such and I’m a 5 . . .” or “I’m a 1” or “7” or whatever. I didn’t have a clue what any of these numbers were supposed to mean and I appeared to be alone in my ignorance.

They’d gotten through nearly all the group when Beverly spotted me sitting on the floor behind a chair. “I see you back there Charles. Can we have a few words from you?”

So I stood. “Hi, my name is Charles and I’ve lived in San Miguel on and off for about two years now. I find the place very special and am making it my primary residence. I was a banker for 22 years and moved here to escape corporate America and reinvent myself. I’ve not attended Life Path but somehow seem to be drawn to people who have been through the program and am friends with a number of them. And,” I hesitated a moment, “I’m not sure what all this number stuff is about but the last time I measured I was about a six and a half.”

There was a brief silence and then the crowd exploded with laughter. One woman held her fingers out to about three inches and said, “I’m from Texas and men there tell us that this is six inches!” More laughter. I was called “Mr. Six and a Half” the rest of the evening and something tells me that someone will shout the name out to me in the Jardin one day.

Registering the Car


Car buying, stage 2.

So my young friend Alejandro is back in town. You may remember him as the kid who trashed my old apartment. He was my Spanish tutor and got kicked out of his apartment two weeks before he was to return to Canada. Since I was going to be gone I offered him my place. “I won’t tell anyone that I’m staying here,” he had told me. Reports from my Landlords was that there was a party every night, the house was a mess when he left, both toilets “Full to the top with shit,” according to Francois, the owner, and they had to pay the housekeeper extra to clean everything before I returned. And on one night, when Ana Bella was home alone, she looked out the window and was terrified when she saw young men climbing over the wall. Alejandro had lost his keys and convinced the neighbors to allow him to climb over from their side. “He was such a nice boy,” Francois said, “He just like to party a lot.”

Between the extra housekeeping expense and his phone bill, he wound up owing me about $150 USD, which he assured me via email, that he would pay. That was a year ago and while I’ve seen no money, he has kept in touch and even invited me to Cancun to stay for free at a hotel where he was working. (I declined, as that was the week that my family was here in San Miguel.)

So he’s back in San Miguel for a couple of months and has managed to burn through all the money that he saved while working at the hotel. I helped him put together a resume and he now has leads on two jobs here. He wanted to do some work for me to repay his debt. “How about a gardener? Do you need a gardener?”

“No,” I told him, “A gardener comes with the house. But what you can do is help me with translation services. I have to get my car registered and when the construction starts on the house I’ll need someone to translate to the builders.”

(I’ll explain this in dollars so that we don’t have to convert between pesos and dollars.)

On the first attempt at getting the car registered we were told that the state of Guanajuato imposes a title transfer fee of $350. And, since the transfer between the first and second owner was never completed we’d need to pay $700 to get it registered. The man in the office was very nice and told us that we should get this taken care of in Queretaro because it would be cheaper. My initial gringo response was to just throw money at the problem and get it resolved but Alejandro was adamant that we should at least make the attempt. He called the dealer who, understandably, didn’t want to pay the fee for his half because it is not required in the state where he sold the car. So, cash in pocket we returned to the Transito in San Miguel. Even with the cash we were told that we needed to have the car investigated to ensure that it was not stolen. “I did that in Queretaro before I bought the car,” I explained. “That is a different state, you have to have in done here in Guanajuato as well.” (Heaven forbid the agencies should work together.)

Off we went through the back roads of San Miguel, Alejandro asking directions out the window of the car as we wound our way through town. They took us immediately at the investigations office and about an hour later we were good to go. Alejandro and I agreed to meet the next morning and drive to Queretaro. “We don’t even know where in Queretaro the Transito is,” I explained. “It is a city of a million people. How are we going to find this place?”

“I’ll ask around when we get there.”

After the 45 minute drive I took the only exit that I know in Queretaro. The exit to Costco, Walmart, Sam’s club, etc. After asking around and driving in circles for about an hour we found the place right across the freeway from Office Max and Home Depot. Inside we were directed to the appropriate window where we stood in line filling out the requisite form. I was prepared. I’d heard stories about government offices so I had a folder with three copies of everything under the sun.

The official seemed convinced that we would be lacking something. Every time he asked for a document and we gave it to him, he’d push it back saying that we needed a copy, which I would then pull out of the folder. He said that we’d have to turn in the license plates so Alejandro borrowed a screwdriver from him and went out to the car while I waited at the window. Then the man glanced at one of the copies and ran out of the building while I stood there helpless. A few minutes later he returned with Alejandro, without the plates, and said that we needed to speak with the manager.

The manager pointed to a receipt from 1999 and said that it was not valid because it did not display the year of the vehicle. (Never mind that the serial number and engine number were both depicted.) She said that we would need to find the owner from 1999 and have a proper receipt prepared. Alejandro asked if some money would take care of this but she said that it was a legal document and it needed to be accurate and then she walked off. The man whispered to Alejandro. “What did he say?” I asked. “He says that we should just find a typewriter and type 1997 on the form.”

That night, back in San Miguel, I scanned the document into my computer, selected the right font, the right grey scale, etc., and produced a near perfect document. I picked Alejandro up the next morning at 9:30. “If this doesn’t work, I’m just going to drive an unregistered car. This is so stupid. I gave the man his money, he gave me the car, and this should be a done deal.”

It worked (with the help of $20 slipped to the man behind the window). The front plate wasn’t attached with screws so Alejandro borrowed a pair of pliers from a taxi driver, removed the plates and turned them in. After we drove back to the Transito in San Miguel. We had a little difficulty as I don’t really have an address at the new house. It is in the contract as Lot number such and such. “It is a ranchito,” we explained. I paid for the plates and, after six different trips to four different Transito offices over the course of four days, we were done. Total cost, $175 USD. With patience, Alejandro’s help and a tank of gas, I saved over $500.

This is the kind of red tape that drives gringos out of Mexico.
Alejandro is trying to decide what to do in life and I spent an evening playing big brother. I explained how I started out in life thinking that ‘things’ would make me happy. Then I was sitting there with all my ‘things’ and wasn’t happy. I found that experiences are what motivate me in life and ‘things’ do not make me happy. “Except my new truck,” I had to admit. It has made me very happy. Being able to drive to neighboring towns, throw stuff in the back, etc., has changed my life here. I can hardly stop smiling.


It was Independencia Wednesday night. Alex had a group of us over to his rooftop patio to hear the grito (the cry for independence) and to watch the subsequent fireworks. Mary Elena was there from the ranch, seven centimeters dilated with her seventh child.

The grito was really moving. An announcer would read from the balcony of Allende’s former home and during designated sections the crowd would scream, “Viva!” Their cries could be heard throughout the city. This was followed by an impressive display of fireworks. I’ve seldom seen such patriotism anywhere.

On the house front, I’ve got builders scheduled to begin work on the morning of October 4th. However, I just received an email from my tenants who are building in La Manzanilla. They want to delay their departure for a week so I need to check with my builders to see if this is going to be a problem. It is the first construction delay and construction has not even begun. “Patience,” I tell myself. “If you are going to survive this thing, patience.”